Chloé Pre-Spring 2023


You may never look at a star pattern the same way – and Gabriela Hearst will be very happy about it.

Combining her work as creative director at Chloé with stories of climate success, the designer has chosen fusion as the theme for her pre-spring collection and her upcoming spring-summer show in Paris in September. She said the easiest way to learn about this clean and affordable form of future energy is to think about “how stars are born.”

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During a Zoom call, Hearst spoke enthusiastically about ITER, billed as the world’s largest fusion experiment, with 35 countries involved in building a tokamak in the south of France, a massive device that could produce controlled thermonuclear fusion power. She explained that this option is evolutionary, which could help humanity reduce its dependence on fossil fuels that warm our planet.

“Eighty-seven percent of the world is moving on fossil fuels,” she said. “What I like about fusion is that there is no uranium that you can weaponize.”

Then Hearst shared her screen to show off the pre-spring collection, which housed her own engineering prowess — star patterns that looked like antique tablecloths embroidered onto black leather or white poplin sundresses. There is a tunic version in a knit-look wool fabric with lace inserts and ceramic buttons, which Hearst is obsessed with.

It’s exhilarating to see a designer combine her causes and her personal story with her design work for the French house. The collection features a slew of ‘low impact’ denim items made from 87% post-consumer cotton and 13% hemp, developed with Adriano Goldschmied.

“So basically what you’re looking at is trash,” Hearst said with a chuckle, though even photos of her sleek riding coat and corset dresses telegraphed that eco-denim had a soft hand, what the designer has confirmed. She then flashed a slide of model Paloma Elsesser in a pair of glamorous frames and explained that they are made from recycled acetate but still look like silver.

Born and raised on a ranch in Uruguay, Hearst has seen her dad and stepfathers tend to cattle wearing Barbour jackets, and now at Chloe she’s collaborating with the British brand, stretching her rugged waxed cotton into capes. flared riding boots or a skimpy trench coat with ruffled shoulders.

The designer says Joel Cohen’s recent film ‘The Tragedy of Macbeth’ inspired the vaguely medieval silhouettes, cropped shearling jackets and white corset dresses to a leather turtleneck with trumpet sleeves that Hearst is looking forward to. to get hold of.

She took a tangent by bragging about her “really strong shoe game” at Chloe, which for pre-spring includes a platform design she sketched at 17 and a high boot with a laced-up corset in the back. And then she came back to rave about fusion energy, saying it’s closer to a reality than most people realize.

While waiting for a working tokamak, someone should find a way to harness Hearst’s contagious energy.


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